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Personal Note: Don't be afraid of the durian! The sambal balances the funk with heat, sweetness, and that incredible umami from the shrimp paste. 

To toast shrimp paste: Wrap a small amount in foil and place in a dry pan over medium heat for 1-2 minutes until deeply fragrant.

Tempoyak is a tradition of Malay communities across Sumatra and Kalimantan, where durian grows in abundance and fermentation the usual solution to preserving an abundant harvest. I first tasted tempoyak as a teenager living in Kuala Lumpur, where durian season transforms the entire city into something intoxicating and overwhelming in equal measure. I have to admit I was not into durian, nor was my palate ready for the fermented kind. 

Interestingly, Java grows plenty of durian too but don't have a Tempoyak version that I could see. Jeff and I ate loads of it when we were doing our Tempeh course -  but even with all that durian, they tend to preserve it through drying (making kering durian), turning it into dodol (a sweet, thick paste), or candying it - rather than fermenting.

The cultural and ethnic differences shaped which preservation methods took hold where. Javanese culture seems to focusing fermentation on soybeans (tempe, tauco) and cassava (tape singkong) rather than fruit. Each Indonesian region developed preservation methods around their dominant crops and cultural practices. From Palembang's tempoyak ikan patin to Jambi's fiery sambal seruit, still the Malay tradition makes fermented durian distinctly their own. Isn't it interesting? 

Fresh durian we bought and ate at a specialty store in Yogjakarta.

What remained...look at those pips! It was coming out of our pores by the next day I'm pretty sure. Luckily it was just the 2 of us for a few days. 

 

Piles of durian at a Singpaore market

 

We might have the big banana, and pineapple - but Yogjakarta has this:

Written by Sharon Flynn

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