Directions
Start by getting your fire ready - a charcoal barbecue is ideal, though a very hot oven (250°C) will work too. Place whole, unwashed oranges directly onto the grill or onto a baking tray in the oven. You want to char them properly - not just warm them, but actually burn the skins until they're blackened and blistered in places, turning them occasionally so they char all over. This takes about 20-30 minutes on the BBQ, longer in the oven. The kitchen will smell extraordinary - sweet and smoky and slightly dangerous.
Once your oranges are properly charred and soft to the touch, let them cool enough to handle. Don't worry about ash or blackened bits - that's all part of the flavour. Roughly chop the whole oranges, skin and all, removing any seeds as you go. You can do this by hand or pulse them briefly in a food processor if you prefer a finer texture, but I like the rustic, chunky quality of hand-chopping.
Place the chopped oranges into a large, heavy-bottomed pot with the water. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for about an hour, until the peel is completely soft and the mixture has reduced and thickened slightly. The burnt skin will soften and become jammy, releasing its bitter oils and smoky notes into the liquid.
Add the sugar and lemon juice, stirring until the sugar has completely dissolved. Now bring the mixture to a rolling boil and cook, stirring frequently to prevent catching, until it reaches setting point - about 105°C on a sugar thermometer, or when a small amount wrinkles on a cold saucer that's been in the freezer. This usually takes 20-30 minutes of hard boiling, but watch it closely and test frequently.
Pour into sterilized jars while still hot, seal, and process in a water bath if you're planning to keep them long term, though honestly, this marmalade tends to disappear rather quickly.
Recipe Note
The burnt orange flavor is bold and unapologetically bitter-sweet. It's magnificent on sourdough toast with good butter, or orgasmic with soft blue cheese -Â stirred into Greek yogurt, or used as a glaze for roasted duck or pork. You can add other flavours such as a stick of cinnamon or a few star anise during the first simmer - the warm spices play beautifully with the charred citrus.
If you want to amplify the campfire element, without having to go camping - add a splash of whisky or mezcal in the final stages of cooking. And if you find yourself with extra charred oranges, please - do what the Chinese herbalists suggest - eat one warm, pulling apart the segments with your fingers, letting the heat work its magic from the inside out. It is worth it, you'll see. x
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