Indian Mango Pickle (Aam ka Achaar)
One of India's most treasured preserves - intensely spiced, gloriously oily, and capable of transforming the simplest meal into something memorable. Unlike the bright, fresh Latin American mango relish, this is a serious, long-keeping pickle that develops complex flavours over weeks and months. I like to make about a litre of both this and the Lime Pickle from my book which lasts us through the year. It is not the main event - but changes the whole feel of a meal. Even if you've ordered in - adding your own condiments on the side makes a very satisfying dinner.
About Indian mango pickle: Across India, every household has their own recipe for mango pickle, just as in Korea they have different Kimchi styles and recipes according to the temperature and geography of the place - and it is passed down through generations. This North Indian style uses mustard oil and a powerful spice blend including fenugreek - ingredients that create the characteristic bitter-spicy-sour flavour that Indians crave. The oil creates an anaerobic environment that allows fermentation while preventing spoilage, and traditionally, jars are set in the sun to speed the process and intensify flavours. Easily doable in Australia. :)
A small spoonful alongside dal and rice, or with paratha, is all you need.
What you'll need:
- 1kg green (unripe) mangoes, completely firm and hard
- 200ml mustard oil (traditional) or cold-pressed sesame oil
- 60g fine sea salt
- 3 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds
- 2 tablespoons fenugreek seeds
- 1 tablespoon fennel seeds
- 1 tablespoon nigella seeds (kalonji)
- 2 tablespoons red chilli powder (adjust to heat preference)
- 1 tablespoon ground turmeric
- 1 teaspoon asafoetida (hing) - optional but traditional
- 10-12 cloves garlic, roughly chopped (optional)
- 5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned (optional)
Equipment:
- Large glass or ceramic bowl
- Clean, dry glass jar (1.5-2 litres) with tight-fitting lid
- Muslin or cheesecloth
- Clean, dry wooden or steel spoon (never use wet utensils)
Method:
- Prepare mangoes: This is crucial - everything must be completely dry. Wash mangoes and dry them thoroughly, then leave them out for several hours until no moisture remains on the skin. Cut into chunks or thick wedges, removing the pit. Don't peel - the skin adds flavour and helps maintain structure. Each piece should be about 3-4cm.
- Toast and grind spices: Lightly toast the mustard seeds, fenugreek, fennel, and nigella in a dry pan until fragrant - just 1-2 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely grind (not to powder - you want texture). Mix with the chilli powder, turmeric, and asafoetida if using.
- First mix: In your large bowl, combine the mango pieces with the salt and all the ground spices. If using garlic and ginger, add them now. Mix thoroughly with a clean, dry spoon. The salt will start drawing moisture from the mango.
- Add oil: Pour in about three-quarters of the mustard oil and mix well. Every piece should be coated with oil and spices. The oil should just about cover the mixture - you'll add more later if needed.
- Pack the jar: Transfer everything to your completely dry jar. Press down gently but don't compact too much like you would in sauerkraut - you want the oil to circulate. Pour any remaining spiced oil from the bowl on top. The mango should be covered with oil - if not, add a bit more.
- Sun fermentation (traditional): Cover the jar with muslin secured with string (this allows air circulation while keeping insects out). Place in direct sunlight daily for 7-10 days, bringing it in at night. I put mine on the kitchen window sill which gets sun for much of the day. Open and stir gently with a clean, dry spoon once a day if you can. The sun's warmth speeds fermentation and develops flavours.
- Modern method: If you don't have reliable sun, keep the jar at warm room temperature (25-30°C is ideal - this is a summer ferment). It will take 2-3 weeks instead of 7-10 days. Still stir when you can.
- Monitor and wait: Over time, the mango will release juices that mix with the oil. The pickle is ready when the mango has softened slightly but still has bite, the oil has a rich aroma, and the flavours have mellowed and married - usually 2-3 weeks minimum. The best flavour develops after 4-6 weeks.
- Seal and store: Once fermentation is complete, seal with a tight lid. If oil levels have dropped, top up with a bit more oil. Store at room temperature - it will keep for 6 months to a year. Always use a clean, dry spoon to serve. It gets better with age. x
The science: The oil creates an anaerobic environment that allows lactobacillus fermentation while preventing mould and spoilage. The salt draws moisture from the mango, creating a brine within the oil. The spices aren't just flavour - fenugreek and turmeric have antimicrobial properties that help preservation. The fermentation transforms the raw bitterness of fenugreek and the sharp tartness of green mango into complex, addictive flavours.
Critical tips for success:
- Dryness is everything: Any water will cause spoilage. Dry your mangoes, jar, and utensils thoroughly.
- Quality oil matters: Mustard oil is traditional and adds a pungent kick. If you can't find it or don't like the flavour, use cold-pressed sesame oil. Avoid neutral oils - you need flavour.
- Don't rush it: The longer it ferments (up to a point), the better it gets. Young pickle is harsh; aged pickle is sublime.
- Patience with fenugreek: Fenugreek is bitter at first - almost too bitter for me - but it becomes wonderfully complex with time. Trust the process.
Sharon's tip: Indian mango pickle is nothing like the fresh, bright Latin American version - they're completely different preserves for different purposes. This one is intense, oily, and meant to be eaten in small amounts as a powerful condiment. A teaspoon alongside your meal is perfect. And yes, it tastes better with age - if you can resist eating it all, try some at 3 months versus fresh. The difference is worth it.
Serving suggestions:
- A small spoonful alongside dal, rice, and yogurt
- With parathas or naan for breakfast
- Alongside biryani or any Indian meal
- Mixed into yogurt as a raita
- With simple scrambled eggs for a flavour bomb
- Accompanying a soft cheese board
- With papadums and yoghurt
Troubleshooting:
- White film on top? That's often harmless yeast. If it smells fine, stir it back in or skim it off.
- Mango too soft? You used ripe mango instead of green, or it's been fermenting too long.
- Oil looks cloudy? Normal during fermentation. It will clear as it ages.
- Tastes too bitter? Fenugreek hasn't mellowed yet. Give it more time.
Variations across India: (very general sorry!)
Have a play with these - I have a curry tree and love to add the leaves, I also love sesame oil and a bit of sweetness so adding Jaggery is good.
- South Indian style: Use sesame oil, add curry leaves, sometimes tamarind
- Gujarati style: Sweeter, with jaggery added
- Rajasthani style: Very oily, very spicy, minimal fermentation
- Andhra style: Extremely hot with more chilli
- Bengali style: Sometimes includes panch phoron (five-spice mix)
For a wonderful book on Indian Pickles see if you can get your hands on a copy of this digest of Indian Pickles - Usha's Pickle Digest: The Perfect Pickle Recipe Book by Mrs Usha R Prabakaran
